I had my last two wisdom teeth removed yesterday. Though there was very little pain during the procedure, I must admit I had a huge amount of anxiety. But I made it through and now I'm doped up on Percoset - because the pain it pretty dang uncomfortable now that the anaesthetic has worn off. I can't drive because of the drugs, so I'm stuck in the house today. This afternoon, I'll see if I can do some more work painting and patching in the front hall. And Gene and I will go to the store tonight to buy the last few things we need in order to finish small jobs around the house.

We signed all our papers for the new townhouse yesterday. The loan is due to fund today and record tomorrow. Our agent will bring us the keys on Friday and we expect to list our current home for sale on Saturday afternoon. So I head back to work next week just as it's time for agents to start showing our house.I think the dogs will be coming with me to work, just to keep them out of the way. I'm hoping for a very quick sale. I believe we have a fantastic home in a desirable neighborhood and at a reasonable price. When we bought this place seven years ago, it had been listed for less than 24 hours. That was a quick sale!

I'm hoping for a sale within 7 days. Seattle's real estate market is still doing very well, even though some markets around the country are cooling off. That should bring us some good luck. I will feel a tremendous amount of relief when the entire purchase and sale process is over.

Yeah! I'm home! And to top it off, this journal has grown to more than 8000 words. I love travel, but I'm always happy to get home. I love Seattle so very much. I learn new things about new peoples whenever I travel. I also learn about me too. I learn about my strengths and weaknesses. This trip has been no exception.

What have I learned? First, not many Americans are going to Europe these days. And with another summer of bomb scares and increased security, travel in Europe isn't easy.

Of course, I learned a great deal about history, art, culture, language and travel skills. What about me? Well...nothing new: it's tough for me to handle the stress of traveling on planes. Trains are far less a problem, even in countries that speak a language different from mine. But still, even when I have problems I can maintain my control, think, adapt, and move on. My rising stress and anxiety don't stop me. I recover quickly. I truly belive I can handle anything - even if it's stressful.

The most important thing I learned it that I'm not one of those folks that prefers traveling alone. I missed Gene very much. I missed sharing with him, dining with him, and sleeping with him. He was seldom out of my thoughts. So I don't think I will be dashing off on my own again anytime soon. But rest assured, we have big plans ahead.

I already mentioned the two day cruise in September (Seattle to Vancouver BC and back. In December we have our big 14 day cruise from Acapulco through the Panama Canal and on Puerto Rico. Then in February we have a 7 day Western Caribbean cruise out of Galveston. Fun fun fun! Ciao bello!

I raided the mini bar last night, and then I ordered room service. I awoke at 7am this morning, showered, dressed in clean clothes, and called for some toothpaste. Soon after, my full English breakfast arrived. I watched breakfast telly on BBC and soon after checked out of the hotel. The Gatwick North Terminal is just a short walk down a connecting tube.

AA check-in was easy because I was able to use the first class desk. Surprisingly, security was fairly fast - only 20 minutes. It seems the BAA is finally hitting their stride.

Now I'm comfortably ensconced in a leather arm chair in the British Airways lounge (courtesy of an American Airlines day pass.) I have free coffee, pastries, and a Boingo Hotspot connection. This is the way air travel is supposed to be!

I'll be boarding my flight in about 40 minutes. I should have time to post again in Dallas. Hopefully, I'll be in Seattle by 6pm local.

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Things are looking good. I'm at DFW, and I just took my seat for the flight home. From Gatwick to Dallas was one of the best flights I've had in Economy class. I had an aisle seat on a 777 with my own TV. So I passed the time watching Mission: Impossible III, re-runs of Frasier, and reading a new book. They served two full meals too.

We landed at DFW a few minutes late, but there was still time to clear Immigration, re-claim my bag, clear Customs re-check the bag, and transfer to a different terminal.

Briefly, before boarding the aircraft I was able to chat with my husband online. I can hardly wait to see him and my little furry children. Tomorrow, unfortunately, I must dive right back into the stress of finishing the prep work for selling the house.

There is a lot going on in our lives. Gene has shouldered the burden since I've been gone. We should close on the new townhouse next week and list the Magnolia home at the same time. In ten days, I head back to school too. Then Mom and Dad come to visit for Labor Day weekend. Wow! What a full summer it has been. And we still have a two day cruise in late September!

Last night I enjoyed a very relaxing dinner with two ladies from St. John, USVI, and a mother and daughter from British Columbia. By 10:30 I was packed and asleep.

This morning I woke up early at 5:30, ate breakfast at seven, and was in a taxi on my way to Ciampino Airport by 8:00. I figured it out this morning - I will be travelling for a full 24 hours from the door of my hotel to the door of my home. Oh my!

I'm sitting by the airline gate now. Ciampino is a small airport, but heavily used - mostly by only two airlines: EasyJet and Ryan Air. Thank God I'm not flying Ryan Air. The check-in lines were enormous! EasyJet was....well...easy. But tempers are definitely short.

People are not reading the signs that say "no liquids." Some are amazed when they've had hand cream and wine confiscated. I watched as one woman had a fit at security, dumping her water in a security box because she insisted she had to keep the empty bottle. The Italian security officer started yelling at her and she yelled right back. Thankfully, after a minute of this, a different security officer stepped up to operate the machines while those two continued to argue. As I started toward the gate, the woman was finally apologizing saying she had been in the airport for 17 hours.

I have about ninety minutes until boarding. Once I reach Gatwick I must collect my bag, change terminals, and re-check my bag for my AA flight. Lucky for me, I can use the First Class check-in. I have just under two hours to accomplish all this. I'm also hoping to buy a book prior to the flight. A thick mystery sounds good to me.

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Now the stress begins. It's 10am and my flight out of Rome has been delayed by at least 90 minutes. The explanation is our aircraft is arriving late due to its delayed departure from London. It's very unlikely I will make it onto my AA flight back to the US.

I've tried calling the only AA phone number I have, but apparently Italian phones won't accept the number. I'll have to take care of rescheduling once I finally get to Gatwick. And Italian directory assistance was no help. I can't understand them and they don't understand me.

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Oh my, what a day this has been! I'm not going home today. It's currently 6:00pm and I'm having a well deserved drink in the bar of the Gatwick Airport Hotel.

My flight from Rome wasn't just late -- it was VERY late, ultimately more than two hours! I was supposed to arrive at 11:30am and trasfer to a 2:20pm flight. Seemed like enough time when I booked my ticket back in May.

My frustration grew and grew as the day dragged on. We waited to board, we waited on the tarmac too. Adding to my problems, current rules prevented me from carrying my bag onto the plane as I usually do. So, after arriving at Gatwick I had to wait for more than an hour for my bag. I knew I was more than 1/2 an hour past my check in time. But still I went up to the check-in counter. Imagine my shock when I found that all AA personnel at both the ticket counter and the check-in counter were gone. There was no one to help me, not even at 3:30pm. My fears had come true.

I followed the instructions on my mileage card, calling the local number for AA reservations. But it wasn't a local number. I had to spend 4 GBP (about 8 dollars) in long distance charges to re-book for tomorrow morning's flight, and AA charged me a $200 fee for missing my flight. But, I explained, I missed the flight because Gatwick is still messed up due to the bomb threats and the subsequent delays and cancellations. That didn't matter to AA. So I had to pay up.

Of course, I am not the type to sleep in an airport terminal. After all, I'm not 20 years old! No grumpy middle aged man wants to sleep in the middle of Gatwick Airport. So I checked into the airport hotel. Now, the hotel as well has left something to be desired. I asked specifically if they have wirless Internet access. They said yes. But it turns out their system is quite old and does not allow access to those carrying PDA's. Also, this so-called luxury hotel's furniture looks worn and the carpet has two stained spots. But the bed was nice and I was too damn tired to try a different hotel.

Clearly, I have had my fill of travel! I'm tired of passengers, hotels, and especially airlines. The most calming moment for me was when I finally called my wonderful husband, Gene. Just telling the story of my frustrations to someone who listened and cared was like lifting a huge weight from my shoulders.

As I said to Gene at the end of our short phone conversation: I'm safe, I'm sheltered, and I will be home soon. I'm feeling much less frustration now. Isn't he fantastic! He is so dramatically different from me, so much calmer, level headed and positive.

So I remind myself, everything will be fine. But these problems are going to raise the cost of my trip by at least $500. Seattle and the USA are looking mighty good right now. Soon I will go to bed. Out my window, I can see Gatwick's North Terminal. I did some hand laundry to make sure I have clean clothes for tomorrow. I sure hope everything goes okay tomorrow.

I had a full day for sightseeing scheduled, so I took advantage of every possible minute.

I started with the Vatican first. The Metro dropped me about 6 blocks from Piazza San Pietro. From the time I stepped into the square until I left was about three hours. It was one of the most thrilling and overwhelming experiences of my life. It's truly difficult to use words to describe my feelings.

My journey started in the line for security screening. The Swiss Guards are really good at handling crowds. Once a person gets through security, then you go through the clothing check (to make sure everyone is dressed modestly). I was wearing my pants with the legs that zip off and a collared shirt.

Then, the entry line splits outside the cathedral. One side goes to the crypt, the other to the cupola, and a third towards to the church. I chose the crypt. I saw the crypt of both Popes Paul VI and John Paul I. They were the two popes I remember from my youth. But of course, most of the crowd was attracted to the crypt of John Paul II. The crowd was required to keep moving, but a small area was roped off for those who wanted to kneel and pray. A little boy was allowed to cross the rope line and lay flowers on the simple tomb.

Once I left the crypt, I followed the line outside and back up the the main cathedral steps into the entrance. I spent two hours inside, including about 45 minutes at Mass.

The church is magnificent, and truly monumental. The art is nothing short of breathtaking. The crowds were generally well behaved and respectful. I was especially surprised by the number of Indian Christians I saw. I also noticed two young priests who appeared to be escorting parents and family members around.

After seeing St. Peters inside, I spent some time sitting at the base of the shaded colonnade, looking at the outside of this, the largest church in the world. The people were fun to watch, though none looked as hot as I felt. Then I realized I still had on my long pants. Well...I unzipped the bottom legs of those babies real fast. It helped a lot to wear shorts.

Since today is a national holiday in Italy (and a religious one too) the Vatican Museum was not open. I walked down the boulevard to Castle San Angelo, the Pope's ancient fortress. The building started its life as Emperor Hadrian's Mausoleum. But in the late middle ages, the pope (I forget which on) decided to build a fortress on top. Other popes added tall thick walls around the circular burial structure. Then they crowned it with a sword bearing angel.

The tour inside includes Hadrian's burial chamber, as well as all the more recent additions. At the lowest point of Imperial collapse, Rome had lost more than 90% of its population and the city was literally in ruins because invading armies set fire to everything. Sadly, we can blame a couple Christian armies for that too - not just barbarians.

Later, Renaissance popes added some extraordinary rooms to the top of the fortress, filled with frescoes that hearken back to the glory of Imperial Rome. I saw several rooms that immitated Roman villas, as well a couple beautiful terraces which looked out over the oldest sections of Rome.

After I toured the castle, I wandered through the city until I reached the Pantheon (aka basilica Santa Maria). Now that is an impressive Roman structure - the best preserved in all Rome. It's beautiful, with the only sources of light coming from either candles or sunlight streaming through the oculus in the roof.

On a warm day in Rome, what could be better than the cool waters of a fountain? I made my way along the twisting (and poorly labeled) streets to Piazza Navona with its Fountains of the Four Rivers. From there I walked further and eventually squeezed into the shockingly huge crowd at Trevi Fountain.

The crush of people at Trevi was so overwhelming I stayed for only five minutes. The area around the fountain is small and enclosed. I felt like I'd be an easy mark for a pickpocket. But I must say, the fountain is ornate and very beautiful. The water is somehow a sparkling aqua blue color. I wish I could have stayed longer.

Finally, I stopped by The Spanish Steps on my way to catch the Metro. Frankly, I was disappointed. The steps climbing the hill from Piazza Spagna to Trinity Church are over rated. PLus. the fact that the church and its Egyption obelisk are covered with scaffolding didn't help. And the fountain at the base is small. The Harbor Steps in Seattle are just as pretty, cleaner, and less crowded. If they ever pull down Seattle's waterfront highway, our Harbor Steps will outshine the Spanish Steps easily.

There is a subway station adjacent to the Piazza Spagna. So I returned to the hotel just before 4pm to take a shower, removing my film of Roman sweat, and relax for a while. I'll set out for more touring at about 4:30.

- - - - - - - - - -

I just returned from a journey back through time to the age of Imperial Rome. Once I had relaxed and cooled off, I set out to conquer the Coliseum and the ruins around the ancient Roman forum. I only had 3 hours, but I managed to do both. If I hadn't purchased my ticket for the Coliseum offsight (as suggested by Rick Steves), I would have spent most of my time standing in line. I bet, in the Pantheon there used to be a statue of Rick Steves. He is the god of travel.

The Coliseum is magnificent site. There are signs scattered around which mention restoration. I'm not sure how much restoration they intend to do, but already they have rebuilt part of the amphitheatre floor, a section of seating, and some of the stairs. In some areas, sections of the original marble floor remain. What we see of today's coleseum is really just the brick and concrete of the base structure. Much of the arena used to be covered in fine marble and stone.

The forum is equally beautiful, but less complete. Broken columns and brick foundations are all that remains of most structures. The thing that impressed me most was a comment on one of the signs by an ancient temple which was partially converted into a Christian church. Looking up from the bottom of the Via Sacra, one can see a green bronze door high up on a wall - apparently leading nowhere. If one walked out of the church through that door, one would plummet thirty feet to the ground. Apparently, that door marks the ground level of the area from 1850. It was shocking to realize the forum (it sets between 3 hills and opens to what used to be a marsh) was burried underneath 30 feel of silt, decay, and rubble. The people and leaders of Rome for they last 1000 years never saw these burried ruins. Exacavation took place after a reunified Italy became a reality in the late 19th century.

Consequently, after walking for more than 10 hours, tonight I am exhausted. I will eat dinner in the hotel dining room again, then pack, and hopefully get a good night's sleep.

Wish me luck. I have to fly through Gatwick, and things are still a mess at the major London airports. If I lose my main suitcase, so be it. Chances are it will catch up with me sooner or later. I just don't want to face a canceled flight.

Arrivaderci Italia!

Apparently I was the first person awake this morning, at least it seemed so since I was the only person at breakfast from 7:30 - 8:00.

By 8:30, I was at Galleria della Academia, passing everyone in a two block long line. It's amazing that folks can remember to arrive early, but not think ahead for reservations. Of course, that's good for me. Reservations can stay a secret.

The Academia was wonderful. Of course, Michellangelo's David is the centerpiece - literally. He is quite amazing in details and his utter monumentality. I knew before I came that he is tall, but standing below him made the statue seem like a colossus.

I spent a total of two hours in the Academia, and I enjoyed every minute. It's well marked in English and they don't let in too many people at once. It was easy to see everything.

After the Academia, I relaxed in my hotel before heading out to get cash, lunch (pizzetta), and then touring Galleria della Uffizi, which had a line that stretched about four city blocks - which I passed in lieu of the reservations window. I spent only 20 minutes in line for both tickets and security. Can you tell I hate standing in line?

Inside the Uffizi, it was fairly crowded and warm in some of the galleries. Again I spent two hours there. My favorite gallery was the Botaccelli room, including Birth of Venus, and Allegory of Spring. I also noticed that the debate about the Immaculate Conception was a major theme in many art pieces, and many of those pieces were quite striking.

Finally, at 2:15 I picked up my bag from the hotel and headed to the train station. It's now 3:30pm (that's 6:30am PDT) on a high speed Eurostar train bound for Roma. I'm in first class and I have four seats all to myself. The view of the Toscana countryside is beautiful. I'm cool, relaxed, legs outstretched, and enjoying the quiet before I land in the frenzy and clamor of Roma.

- - - - - - -

Ah Roma! I got off the train at Roma Termini, and then hopped on the Metro. Two stops later, I stepped outside and into the shadow of the 2000 year old Coliseum. Wow! As predicted, the weather was quite warm and the Metro was boiling hot. So by the time I walked to Hotel Lancelot with my backpack, I was ready to melt. So many Europeans wear long pants during summer - how do they do it!?

The Hotel Lancelot is quite nice, though somewhat distant from the Metro (8 blocks). I got in too late to accomplish much, so I've spent the last 90 minutes relaxing and watching BBC. My room is very comfortable and cool. There is even a small private bar in this hotel, so right now I'm drinking Jameson's whiskey and soda on the leafy patio before I join my fellow guests for dinner. Also, did I mention my room has a balcony? I don't have a view, unless you count looking at all the other people with balconies "a view." But still, it's a pleasant treat.

I'm eating dinner with fellow guests in the hotel dining room tonight. That event starts in five minutes. Our hosts are the owners of the hotel, a charming Indian couple from Great Britain. Eating dinner with other travelers makes me think what it must have been like for wealthy Brits back in the Victorian era when they would travel the "Grand Tour" staying in hotels and eating with other travelers.

At 7pm tonight, I checked my E-mail while enjoying a complimentary glass of Prosecco wine and some crustinni. Then I wandered the streets of Florence as the sun was setting, including the Ponte Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, Piazza della Repubblica, the Straw Market, and the Uffizi Courtyard. Soon I felt hungry. I ate dinner for the first time at a "self service" restaurant. In America we would call these places cafeterias. I ate at a place called Leonardo's - recommended in a Rick Steves book . The food was good, not great. But best of all, it was cheap! Real cheap! For 12 euros, I had a cucumber salad, chilled green beans, fantastic lasagna, a breaded chicken cutlet with fries, plus a small bottle of wine. There were lots of single diners like me, so I felt very comfortable at my window seat. Leonardo's is air-conditioned too. Now I'm back at the hotel. It's 9:30 and I'm watching BBC World News. I should have no problem sleeping tonight.

We were up early for the hour long drive to Maestre. Pat dropped me off at the train station first and then he took three clients to Marco Polo Airport. Things went well until I boarded the train. Then I got a taste of Italian disorganization. I purchased a first class ticket thinking that would give me the most comfortable and quiet seat on an Intercity train. It's not as nice as the Eurostar, but I would have had to wait 1.5 hours to take the next Eurostar. We are due into Firenze at 12:30 - about three hours. Though the compartment was definitely comfortable, it was also packed. At first it was packed with people who had second class tickets. Then, as those off us who actually know how to read a ticket took our assigned seats, the compartment filled with a completely different set of passengers - four Brits, one Italian immigrant, and me. It was cool and quiet in the compartment, and later I was grateful for having purchased a prima clase seat. I stepped into a second class carriage and it was stuffy, warm, and overflowing. As I leave the state of Veneto, here are two of my observations: Corn, corn, corn: Everywhere you look, between every village and town, the land is given over to corn cultivation. Gates, fences, and statues, Oh my!: The Italians do love their fences and gates. Virtually every home in the region has an iron and concrete fence with ornate gates at the front walkway and driveway. And it's not unusual to have a couple statues standing like sentinels by the main walk, greeting visitors with a silent grin. Lions seem especially popular. Perhaps it is the proximity to Venice and it's ubiquitous winged lion of San Marco that lends an aura of authority to the many domestic lion statues in Veneto. The eleven nights I spent in Castelcucco were wonderful thanks to the beautiful people I met (both locals and bikers) but especially because of my brother Patrick. Gratzie mi fratello! - - - - - - - It's 6pm now. I arrived at the Firenze terminal station after one simple transfer. I'm staying at the Hotel Davanzanti. It's a very pretty three star hotel and the staff is extra friendly. First, I had to eat and then purchase a ticket for tomorrow's trip to Rome. My lunch was a pork sandwich freshly grilled by a street vendor. I bought my train ticket at the American Express office. Then it was time for some sight seeing. I toured the San Giovanni Baptistery first. The 700 year old mosaics on the ceiling were quite beautiful. Then I headed to the Duomo Museo (Cathedral Museum). It was terrific - an undiscovered pleasure full of extraordinary renaissance sculpture, but not full of tourists. Finally, I walked around the Duomo, gazing up at the impressive marble façade until I reached the front. It was about 4pm and the entry line had shortened significantly from the time I entered the Baptestry across the piazza. I enjoyed the large but simple interior of the cathedral, and especially Bruneleschi's painted dome. Sadly, they stopped allowing entry to climb the dome so I will try that either tomorrow or on another trip. Now I'm back in my hotel relaxing until about seven. At that time, I'll head over to the Ponte Vecchio and then track down some dinner. Tomorrow I tour the Academia Museum and the Uffizi Gallery (I have reservations so I can skip the lines) before catching a 3pm train to the Eternal City - Roma!

The day started well - I slept in, and then I did my final load of laundry in preparation for tomorrow's departure. Soon after lunch, Pat, Paul, Chris, Peter, Brian and I headed to the final race of the regular team schedule. And, this was Chris' prima gara di ciclistica (first bike race). Ultimately, Peter placed third in his group. Paul placed eighth. Today is Sunday, so that means pizza. We went to a pizzaria in Bassano del Grappa. Mine had prosciutto, artichoke, and mushrooms. Yummm! Afterwards, it was my turn to buy gelato for everyone. Tomorrow (Monday) I will get up at 6am to pack. We leave at 7:30. Buona notte.

Pat, Paul, and Peter raced in Treviso today. Paul took third place in the Gentlemen category. Peter easily took first place in the Veterans category. It was only the second time a male Velo Veneto member has won first place. Peter is an Aussie. If you remember, Paul (a Canadian) was the first victor last weekend. That is two ground breaking weekends in a row for Velo Veneto. And, today's win was Peter's first European victory. We talked briefly to some of the locals, and the older guys watching the race seemed pleased that their local competition has attracted international participation. I got great shots of Peter crossing the finish line and accepting his bouquet on the platform. Tomorrow (Sunday) is my final day in the Treviso/Castelcucco area. The weather here has been very moderate too. Perfect in many ways. The days usually start out sunny. By mid to late afternoon, clouds and/or thunderstorms move in. Then its sunny again the next day. I've always slept comfortably. I suppose the weather will be different when I travel south. Time has gone by quickly. But I think I'm ready to try something new.

I spent the first half of the day at the apartment . The team was taking things easy because tomorrow is a race day. A few folks went into the town of Montebelluna to buy wine. I spent my time reading the International Herald Tribune. The bombing conspiracy will have a more immediate affect on Andy, Larry, Jiniy, and Chris. They are leaving Italy this coming Monday and Tuesday, and flying home to the USA via London. I, fortunately, have a week before flying out of Rome to London and then home to the States. All I have to do is hop on a train to Florence and then Rome. Hopefully, flights through London will be back on schedule by then. Tonight was my final night to cook dinner. I cooked Gnocchi with chicken, a pomodorro sauce, and green onions - plus the usual salad with bite sized morsels of tender mozarella. Tomorrow the team will race in Carbonera, a neighborhood in the city of Treviso.

Today I met the previous owner of Velo Veneto. Renato (Ron) is 78 and he still rides with the young guys (actually there are only middle-aged guys left). He started the camp 20 years ago after an early retirement. New York is his home for most of the year, but he was born in Italy, moving to America when he turned 20 years old. He still spends every summer here, and this year he's been joined by his 19 year old American grandson, David. Ron was eager to regale us with stories of the region's history - though we suspect he sometimes exaggerates his facts for the sake of colorful story telling. Today he told us one particular church was built in 80 BC! Considering the rural locale, I suspect Ron was a little too deep in the story to worry about facts - like the fact Jesus' birth had not yet occurred in 80 BC. Most importantly, Ron adds historical foundation to the history of the Velo Veneto experience - as well as some great Italian culture. Ron was a big part of drawing our largest group for today's workout - eight riders. I took advantage of today's numbers to set up several good video shots. The team rode past an old fortress wall in Castel Franco; down the narrow streets of the Roman town of Asalo; and past the ornate Renaissance Villa Renaldi. When I finish editing this commercial, even I will want to be a rider on the Velo Veneto team. Following the ride, we ate our usual lunch of bruschetta. Then we read and napped. Even though I don't ride a bike, I still appreciate the benefits of the daily Italian reposo (siesta). By 4 o'clock, some team members started showing up at Pat's apartment for a special treat. He had arranged for a physical/massage therapist to work on personal massages sessions. Five people took advantage of the opportunity. They hung out in our living room while the massages took place in a bedroom. A team mate's late arrival soon turned our conversation to today's arrests at the London airports. Since most of us don't have Internet access or understand Italian news, we get our news through Paul and Yvette who have their own apartment and Internet connection above the local pizzeria. By 7:30pm the therapist left and everyone else was drifting toward the hotel for dinner. It was time for me to cook again. Tonight I fixed melon with speck (a kind of prosciutto), a green salad again, and pasta with diced chicken breast in a light artichoke and garlic sauce. Now it's 10:30pm and bedtime. Soon I will dive back into my book: The History of Rome by Titus Livius, written in about 350 AD. We just returned from out usual visit to the gelato shrine. It seems like at least 25% of Castelcucco's population offers a nightly sacrifice at the gelateria. It's obvious Italians are as dedicated to that cold creamy substance as Seattleites are dedicated to our daily coffee intake.

I Ragazzi (the guys) attacked Monte Grappa this morning at 9:30. The first rider reached the top after 1 hour 26 minutes. That was Andy in the 40--45 age group. The last man of six came in at 1 hour 46 minutes. The view from the top (about 5500 ft) is spectacular. All of Treviso and Vicenza are laid out below like a green and red patchwork. To the north is the rocky peaks of the Dolomites, which were partially obscured by clouds today. Riding down was much easier. It took about half an hour, and of course it ended with a gelato stop. As usual, siesta was followed by a terrific dinner served by Luca at the Hotel Monte Grappa.

This morning most of the team rode through one of the local vineyard areas as a daily workout. But the group was down by two. Tom left for home yesterday, and Chris has a minor problem with one of his tendons. Prosecco, a type of light sparkling wine, is the vintage for which this region is well known. Most of today's ride followed la Strada del Prosecco. I tried Prosecco yesterday in Asalo during lunch. It suites my tastes better than champagne. As in the past, I followed in the team van, occasionally driving ahead to set up a video shot. But today I had a companion with me. Brian, Peter's father, came along for the ride too. It was good to have some company. After a nap, Pat, Brian, Peter and I drove to the adjacent province of Vicenza - and ultimately to the medieval town of Marostica. We enjoyed drinks in an outdoor café while watching folks wander through the piazza of this ancient walled city. I confess: prior to my arrival, I didn't know the provience was dotted with so many picturesque towns. It's a wonderful area that's not overwhelmed with tourists. Every little village has it's church, piazza, bar, ristorante and fountain too. I was expecting a rural atmosphere, but the villages and towns are so numerous that this area cannot be called rural - at least not in the American sense. It's good that I'm learning a lot about daily life in northern Italy. I was ignorant before this trip. To end the day, I cooked dinner again just for Pat and I. We enjoyed fresh local sausages, polenta cooked with broth, and we topped it all with a thick melange of pomodorro pesto, onions, mushrooms, and garlic simmered in red wine - plus a light salad including artichoke hearts, zucchini and field greens. I can still smell the sauce here in my bedroom before bed. Dellicioso! Tomorrow we assault the Monte Grappa! Velo Veneto on bikes, and I in the van. Who do you think will be most fatigued afterward?

Pat and I are spending the afternoon driving through the small towns in the foothills of the Dolomites. We stopped at a memorial church dedicated to the Italian architect Canova. It's in Possagno just north of Castelcucco. We also saw a Palladian villa called Di Villa di Maser. At lunch time we stopped in the beautiful hilltop town of Asalo. We had an excellent meal of polenta, sausage and cheese at an outdoor café - Astoria Vini. We also spent some time wandering through the narrow cobbled stretts of this 1000 year old picturesque town. Currently it is 3pm and we are having a siesta repast at Hotel Villa di Ciprini overlooking the valley below. Ah, la dolce vida!

Sunday is supposed to be a day of rest. Mama Lina does not cook for Velo Veneto on Sundays. But the riders do not follow her example. Today was another race day - this time in the town of Meduna di Livenza. And it started early for us. We left Castelcucco at 7:30am. It was a 90 minute drive to the race course on the far eastern border of the Treviso Province in the State of Veneto. Pat says there are no other "American" teams that compete in Italy because all competitors must be members of a team registered in Italy, and each rider must be individually licensed in Italy. So that generally keeps most outsiders away. The rules are looser in France or Belgium, so that's where American cyclists often go. Velo Veneto is known in the region as an "American" team, but that's a misnomer. It's really more of an English speaking and multinational team. Currently the team has American, Canadian, and Australian members. This season has also seen Mexican and Panamanian members, as well as a German that lives in Singapore. The age range of members has been from 12 to 62, though most racers have been between 35 and 55. Today's race was somewhat more interesting for me. For part of the race I followed the riders in the team van. Occasionally, I found a scenic spot to pull over and park. The next time the riders came around, I was able to record some interesting video with scenic backgrounds or along interesting curves in the course. Slowly but surely, Pat and I are building a catalog of shots for Velo Veneto's Internet commercial, as well as a 2006 Season Highlights DVD. Though the morning was race time, I have spent most of the afternoon reading and relaxing. Tonight is pizza night at McBryan's Pizzeria. Velo Veneto is associated with many of the Bolzan family businesses. They own the local hotel and bar, as well as a few villas where the riders live. One of the sons owns and runs the pizzeria where we are headed for dinner in just one hour. Tomorrow is a day off, and Pat and I are planning to tour some of the most scenic parts of the countryside.

Today we got up late and relaxed around the apartment. Soon after lunch we went to a race in the village of Fae, a 75 minute drive east of Castelcucco. It was also my first opportunity to shoot video of a road race. Five cyclists from Velo Veneto competed in two races. And, one of them, Paul (aka Lupo) came in first for his competition (Gentlemen class age 48-55). It was the first time a male Velo Veneto rider had placed at the top. It was Lupo's first European victory as well. He won the traditional bouquet of flowers and bag of groceries. Pat heard many locals comment amongst themselves that an American had won. Well, actually, Lupo is Canadian! After our return home, we celebrated Lupo's victory while eating heaps of delicious pasta at Mama Lina's house.

It's still raining, at times, quite heavily. Last night I met all the current Velo Veneto clients. We ate dinner at Mama Lina's house. She is the matriarch of the family that owns Hotel Montegrappa. Usually Velo Veneto team members stay at the hotel. But much of the building is being remodeled, so they are staying in a home next to Mama Lina's house. She cooks dinner on most evenings, and her culinary reputation is enormous and well deserved. All the cyclist that stay in the villa include Peter, Larry, Andy, Tom, and Chris. Also staying in the house are Peter's father Brian, and Larry's wife, Giny. Paul, another cyclist, has rented his own apartment across the street because he is staying for more than a month. They are all friendly folks and it was fun sharing a meal with them. Today we ran some errands, and in the afternoon, when the skies cleared, most of the team went for a two hour ride while I followed. Occasionally I was able to get some shots on videotape. At the end of the day, I fixed dinner for Pat and I - risotto, pancetta, zucchini, and a green salad, along with a bottle of Chianti.

This morning I awoke from the best night's sleep so far. I slept almost 9 hours, awaking only once. That surprised me because I was not able to take my usual cool shower prior to bedtime. As strange as is sounds, the hotel had no cold water last night! Yes, sometimes hotels run out of hot water, but not my hotel. No matter which way I turned the tap, both in the shower and in the sink, nothing but hot water came out. I settled for a cool sponge bath using water from my drinking bottle. When I awoke this morning, cool water had returned. I started packing soon after I awoke, then I descended the hotel's marble staircase to the noble room for another breakfast. Today we enjoyed a freshly baked croissant with apricot marmalade inside. I had a few hours before my train was due to depart, so first I tried going to the Archeological Museum at Piazza San Marco. Sadly, Thursday is the day it is closed. Instead I wandered to another small church and square, Campo Santa Maria Formosa. There, I had a café latte in a distinctly non-Seattle style - while seated outside and drinking from a real china cup. There are many dogs in Venice, and it's fun to watch them. Some are attached to owners and others simply wander about town, just like me. After a little more window shopping, I picked up my luggage from the hotel and boarded a slow vaparetto (water bus) for a tour of the Grand Canal, on my way to the train station. Now, at 2:30pm I am on the train. We just passed through Venezia Maestre. I'm on my way to meeting Patrick in Castelfranco Veneto. It will be good to see a friendly face. It has started raining, so the day is becoming dreary.

I made it! Finally, at 11:30pm last night, I dragged my tired and worn carcass into Hotel Casa Verardo. My flight had been delayed by nearly an hour, so the sun had long ago set when we touched down. And as usual, I hate flying out of Gatwick. Sadly, Heathrow is not much better. But Marco Polo Airport is pleasant. Despite the big and modern airport, it was disappointing to arrive in Venice late at night. Congratulations are due, because I got on the correct Alilaguna Waterbus. The same can't be said for three of my fellow passengers. I also had real concerns about finding my hotel, but the directions were clear and the streets easy to follow. After checking in, it was time for a much needed cool shower. I fell asleep easily, despite my room being warm and my air conditioner underpowered. I woke up early, so there was time to relax and watch BBC World News. Breakfast in the hotel was the usual collection of meats, cheese, fruit, cereal, yogurt , rolls, juice, AND cappacino (sp?). I enjoyed it very much. First on my itinerary was a stop at the Bancomat, and then a full day of sightseeing. By 9:30 I was at the Correa Museum. Just as advised by Rick Steves, I bought my entrance to the Doge's Palace while at the Correa. The Correa was nice, but not spectacular. It served as a good introduction to Venice. Even more impressive was the fact that my Correa Museum Card enabled me to bypass the looooong line at the Doge's Palace and walk straight in. I tried not to smirk as I passed at least 300 of my fellow tourists. Hehehehe! The Doge's Palace was fan-fricking-tastico! It truly demonstrates the tremendous wealth and power of Venice during it's golden age. My jaw was often dragging on the ground. Or should I say dragging across the fine terrazzo floor? Once I left the palace, I headed next door to Cathedral San Marco. Again (thanks Rick Steves) I passed the tourist line by going direct to the bag check table, and using my claim card to skip to the front of the line. But interestingly, the line at the cathedral was quite small when I entered, so the shortcut didn't save much time. I entered the church at the right moment for a free guided tour in English. Each person in our group carried a personal wireless receiver so we could hear the guide's narration. San Marco is very beautiful. Most of the ceiling is covered with mosaics on a gold background . The floor is covered with mosaics as well. Our guide was careful to explain the symbology used throughout the church. I also explored the first floor (that would be the 2nd floor in the US) museum and the outdoor gallery which overlooks Piazza San Marco. Especially impressive were the 1100 year old bronze horse statues plundered from Constantinopal during the 4th Crusade. Having completed three important sites by 2pm, I sat down in the piazza for lunch. It was a simple meal - pananni and sparkling water. I found a step next to one of the expensive outdoor cafes. They had a band playing some old American favorites. So I managed to steal some romantic atmosphere without paying the cover charge. Strictly speaking, it's illeagle to "picnic" on the square, or even sit on a step - but dozens were doing the same as I and the nearby police ignored us. After lunch I wandered with the crowds toward Rialto Bridge, stopping at the church of San Salvador. Once I was on the other side of the Grand Canal, I explored the church of San Polo and the beautiful Friari Church. It was 4:30 when I stepped out of the Friari - time for gelato. Two small scoops of Amaretto made a perfect treat. I crossed back over the Grand Canal as the locals do - standing in a traghetti. It cost only 50 cents and saved me a great deal of time. A traghetti is a small hand powered ferry boat. The oarsmen seemed surprised or even annoyed to see me amongst the locals. Following my map, I navigated through some of the non-tourist streets, returning to my hotel for a siesta. A nap and a shower, as well as calls to Patrick and Gene, were helpful to re-energize me. At 7:30 I started looking for a dinner restaurant. It took an hour of wandering before I settled on a hotel restaurant at the end of the Grand Canal. It was named Ristorante Principessa. There was live guitar and flute music. The meal was quite good and the waiter paid me just the right amount of attention. I am usually uncomfortable when dining alone, but this evening was an exception. I managed to linger for more than an hour. Watching folks stroll by, as well as the plentiful water traffic, gave me plenty of entertainment before, during, and after my meal of shrimp, squid, and fresh vegetables. Once I returned to my hotel, I fell asleep while gazing out my window at the church steeples and the tiled rooftops of Venice.